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I usually don't follow the instruction, but I read it carefully, then I organize and decide myself how to proceed. | Last Updated: 01/06/02 | ||
| You know how to glue the parts together, right? Yes? Are you sure? Well, this is how I glue two halves. I use both Testors Liquid Cement and Plastic Cement to weld the parts together. I deliberately use excessive amount of cement so that melted plastic comes out between the glued surface. I use a clip to hold the glued parts firmly, then I wait enough (more than 6 hours) to let cement dry. By using this method, when I erase the seam lines, I can avoid using too much putty, which has a different texture and has to be smoothened by using relatively thick coat of primer. |
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| Once dried, I use small needle files to erase the seam lines. I use putty only when a particular gap is too big to smoothen with files. Any conventional putty works just fine, but remember to keep it thin or it will take forever to dry. Once it's smoothened, it's time to use primer to erase the scratches made by files. Use a brush to apply primer and fill the scratches. After that, use sand papers starting from coarser ones, 400 grid for example, to finer ones such as 1200 grid to erase them. Repeat this prime & sand process several times until those scratches will completely be gone. When the parts are properly prepared, spray primer. |
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| Some minor modifications are necessary. I shortened the poly-caps that go inside the inner shoulder then I used putty to fill two holes. The surface of dried putty is coarser than that of plastic, so sometimes I use superglue for the job like this. |
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| Read the instruction and make all the sub-assemblies that go between other parts. In case of this kit, the parts shown could be done before proceeding to the next step. I don't build models so quickly so I sleep while glue dries. |
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