Manitoba

Day19, Saturday, August 1st
Virden (8:00) --- East of Bagot --- (car ride) --- Portage la Prairie (0:30)
194.3 km by myself, 14.4 km extra ride with Ayden and his crews, total 2437.3 km

License plates in Manitoba say, "Friendly Manitoba." Today I learned what it means.
Woke up at 5:30. But it was actually 6:30, because I've crossed the time border. We left there at 8.
From Virden the highway separated into 4 lanes. At the same time paved shoulder disappeared and it became gravel shoulder. As my bike is not for off road, I had to bike along the white line. Some cars honked me get out of their way, and some cars passed me by only 50 cm away. I got more annoyed than scared. Drivers are too lazy! I know it might be us who must avoid biking on Trans Canada, but then they also must care about the weak.
Today we didn't take as many breaks as yesterday. At first we stopped at Oak Lake, then Alexander and then Kennay. There were two interesting signs around Kennay. One says "Brandon 22, Winnipeg 222" and the other says "Don't travel on the paved shoulder," which is exactly what I've been doing.
From Kenney we took highway1A to Brandon instead of Trans Canada. We went in Seven Eleven, and soon got out of the town. There was a hill just before getting back to Trans Canada. We went back a little bit on the highway to Macdonalds. I had Double Big Mac for the first time. It couldn't sell in Japan, I guess.
From there we biked to Douglas without break, but then the wind started blowing toward us, that is, headwind. So we started taking break every 15 km. At a place called Camp Hughes(?) finally paved shoulder appeared. I didn't expect it to be last against my hope. Unfortunately I was right, but it appeared again later. We went in a motel near Carberry to get some water. I was pretty lucky because I didn't have lots of water, and otherwise it would have been like Kamloops.
From Carberry small ups and downs appeared. I put my front gear into the inner some times. By that time I was pretty tired, so we took break every 10 km. Besides my butt got sore as usual, this time my muscle around butt got sore.
About 10 km before Austin, Jason and me decided to go separately and meet up in the campground in MacGragor. I know I couldn't go as fast as him, and I didn't want him to slow down because of me. I think I made the right decision. Later this decision changed usual biking day into unforgettable day.
At Austin I had a break, and bought food for tonight's dinner. As soon as I left there, I saw a camper which says "Canada Challenge 98" so I stopped. Then I met Ayden and his crews. He was the guy running across Canada I've heard of some times. They kindly gave me Powerade and let me in their camper. He had diabetes and he's raising funds for diabetes research. I wish I could donate a lot, but all I could afford was only 2 dollars. I think I should've donated more.
As it was still before 6, I decided to bike with him. At first I thought about biking to MacGragor, but I changed my mind to bike with them to Portage. 12 km/h is very easy, but I couldn't get away from my pain around my butt. When we got to MacGragor, I went in the town to tell Jason I would bike with them to Portage, but they kept going just saying they would stop in.
I knew there is a campground but was not sure where it was. So I asked a man nearby. He kindly led me there by pickup for a poor Japanese cyclist like me. Soon I found the campground and told him so. We decided to meet in front of a hostel in Winnipeg. Then I got out of the town.
As they had said they would drive in, I waited for them at the exit of the highway. They didn't appear for 30 minutes, so I decided to bike further. It was the beginning of my big mistake.
Though I paid attention to both lanes of the highway, I couldn't find their camper. As I went, the sun began to set, and I was getting anxious. When the sun sets, it will be very dangerous to bike? All I have is small headlight, and I don't think it work. So when I started to ask some drivers if they had seen them. They all answered No. Damn. All in my mind is how to spend a night rather than to meet them again. One of drivers I asked was kind enough to call the number I got from them, but it didn't work. When I biked from MacGragor for 20 km, I finally stopped.
I got off my bike and ate some bananas and chocolate bars for dinner. There were so many mosquitoes, which was more than I could imagine. I wore my rainwear to protect myself from them, but they all tried attack my face, the only place my skin is exposed. I started writing my journal and waiting for them to come, though I knew chances are low. Then another God came to me.
When I was writing my journal, a pickup stopped. A man got out and I told him what I was doing. He said he would help me finding them, and that if we failed he would give me a ride to the campground in MacGragor. I had some lucky experiences on my trip, but this was really lucky. No, lucky is not the right word for this situation.
We finally found them at a gas stand near MacGragor. I don't know how relieved I felt. We biked together for about 15 km with them on the same road I biked just before. It was surprising to see how many times they got a honk even in the night. Tens of times as much as I have done.
When we biked for 15 km, we got in the camper and went to a hotel in Portage. At first they offered me their bed in the camper, but Ayden and Rosemary (his nurse) found the hotel room too hot, so I was lucky enough to sleep in their bed for free.
"Friendly Manitoba," I love that word.

This morning I got up the latest on my trip, 8:30. Bed was a lot more comfortable than a bed, and I wished I could stay there longer. Rosemary gave me breakfast in the camper. It took us a while to leave the hotel, and it was 12:00 when we left there. I was a little bit worried about this late start, because I had to get to Winnipeg by tonight.
Around 12:15 we got to the place we stopped at last night. The paved shoulder turned into gravel shoulder again, but as there was a van behind, it was not big a problem. It was really surprising to see how many times they are honked. Sometimes I got honked a lot, but a couple of times a day at most. But they get honks at LEAST a couple of times a MINUTE! Every time they get honked, they wave them back, but I wondered if I should wave back too.
Past 2 we got to Portage La Prairie. Then we went to MacDonalds. They got every meal for free, which was really envious. I got free meal too, and they gave me a T-shirt, written "Canada Challenge." I wished I could stay with them longer, but I must go on. I felt pretty sad when we left them.
As I left Portage pretty late, I tried to go fast. But unfortunately, the wind was blowing from east to west, that is head wind. So I managed to keep 22 km/h. When I got back from Highway 1A to Trans Canada, gravel shoulder waited for me. I kept looking on the mirror and was very careful, but some cars passed me by just beside me or they honked me. I got more scared than angry. Instead of going faster, I took a short break every 30 minutes, and in Elie I took a big break. There my odometer showed 2500 km, the halfway point between Vancouver and Montreal. I don't know if I can get to Montreal, because just halfway of it has been very hard for me.
From there, the wind got weaker, so I was able to go faster, at around 25 kph. When I went for 15 km, a car honked me just behind me, so I rushed in the gravel shoulder and stopped. I was really surprised to see the car --- it was police! I felt really uneasy for a moment, but he advised me to go onto the other lane, where there is a paved shoulder. He was very nice! Then I followed his advice and went to the other lane. There I saw wide, paved shoulder, I waited for a long time! It felt a little bit strange to go against the traffic, but to be safe is better than anything. I felt still a little bit scared, though, because some car might pull over all of a sudden.
When I went 30 km from Elie, I finally went into Winnipeg. But it was not the end of the day! It took me an hour to the city center.
As soon as I got into the hostel, I found Jason. And he introduced his girlfriend, Stacy, to me. She seemed to be a smart person, because she knew the word "Konnichiwa," Japanese "Hello."
Today there was almost no ascent, but I feel really tired. I guess it's the fatigue which comes from pedaling for 2 weeks without rest.

Woke up at 8:30. As I had nothing to do, I walked around the hostel. I got surprised to see most shops are closed though it was opening hours. I found later it is national holiday. After having breakfast, I did internet for a while. Jason and Stacey left there, and I decided to hang around with an Italian guy in the same room.
In downtown most shops are closed. One of things I've wanted to do in Winnipeg is to look for a spare tire, but all bike shops were closed. It was really boring. We went to a place called Forks, where we took lunch and I bought a patch of Manitoba. We decided to go separately after leaving there, and I went back to hostel. I met some bike tourists in front of the other hostel, and they said they are going to Vancouver.
I stayed at the hostel for a while, and I biked around again. All the bike shops were closed. So I went back to the hostel again.
Around 6 Jason and Stacy came back, and then we went to Mexican restaurant. It was very nice but expensive.
David, the guy I met in Gull Lake SK, had phoned me when I came back, and I visited him for a while.
I meant to leave here tomorrow, but I decided to stay a day longer. What a weak will I have!

I got up around 9. Max left there around 8, and woke up to say him goodbye.
Past 10, I went to a bike shop nearby. I bought a tire, and had my bike checked. The guy was pretty nice, though I didn't like his attitude until I said I come from Japan. It happened some times before that when I say I come from Japan people turn friendly to me. I don't know why but really hate that anyway.
After then I went to Woodhaven Park to see Ayden and his crews. He was such a hero! I talked to some people there, and they invited me to barbecue this evening. I biked with them to the hostel, and got surprised how many times they got honked. Once in a couple of SECONDS!!! I was rather embarrassed, because I was not the one running across Canada.
I visited David after then, and did internet for a while. He left for work after a while, and I went back to the hostel.
I joined Ayden again, but that time I was in the camper. After he ran last 15 km, we went out of the city to barbecue. People there were really nice, though I was a total stranger to all but Ayden and his crews. A newspaperwoman was also there to interview him. I sometimes want to be on newspaper, but as long as I'm doing this trip for myself, I shouldn't.
A nice couple who lives in Winnipeg gave me a ride back to the hostel. I was impressed by how friendly people were.
When I went back to hostel, Jason told me he decided not to keep on biking, and would take bus to his home in Ottawa. He didn't have enough money, and his bike is in bad condition. I felt really sorry for him, and also felt how fortunate I am, because I still have money and my bike is in good condition. I'm sure I'll be sad when I leave, but I planned to do this trip on my own anyway. And that set me another goal, meeting him again in Ottawa.
I played last Ping-Pong with him, and went to bet past 12.

I got up at 7:05. There was no one up then. I started packing and ate breakfast. I met Jason around 8, and he fixed me breakfast. It took me long to leave civilization, as usual. When I left there it was five to nine.
I took Broadway, Main Street, Marion Street, Logimodiere Boulevard, Dugald Road and highway 15 to get out of the city. Broadway was pretty crowded, but traffic was reasonable. Main street was under construction. There was no shoulder, so I got a little bit scared. Marion was just normal, and from Dugald Road, the road looked like a highway. There was a shoulder at first, but soon disappeared, as always happens in Mannitoba.
Traffic got less and less as I went away from Winnipeg. Dugald was the first town, but passed it. I made first stop in Anola. I drank a soda, which was exceptionally cheap in the country, 50 cents! I didn't stay there for long, as I left Winnipeg pretty late.
My butt itself was not sore, but my muscle on the left of butt hurt. I've been suffered from that pain since I got into Manitoba. I wanted to make a stop at Vivian, but I found only houses, and it was same with Ste Rita. I couldn't even find where Hazel is. I ate short lunch in Ste Rita.
Today was the day to get out of prairie and into forests. Around Anola the landscape changed dramatically --- from wheat field to forest. It meant I finally got out of boring prairies, but also meant I'm getting into the land of hills and, from what I heard, no shoulder. Also around Hazel Creek, I finally met hills. It was nothing serious though, compared with ones in BC.
I got to Elma past 1. I went in a grocery store, and they gave me water before I asked for it. I don't know why, but I've met lots of friendly people in Manitoba, as the license plate says. (Friendly Manitoba) Maybe it's the most friendly province in Canada!
From there to the junction of Highway 44, I finally got strong tail wind. I don't know the last time I got tail wind. I saw some farms on the way, which I hadn't seen since BC.
Things changed when I got on Highway 44. The wind changed into cross wind, and there were more hills. They were not very serious till Rennie, but from Rennie it was bunch of short ups and downs. In addition, the road got narrower, and finally it was as wide as only 2 cars can go. In addition (for the second time!) the road condition got worse, and I even saw a signpost that said "rough road." I think they should repair the road before putting up such a signpost.
The scenery was really nice though, and I saw some nice lakes. My right knee was getting sore and when I got close to West Hawk, the hills got steeper. (Most of them are only 100 m long, though)
I got food just before West Hawk, and got to the campground past 6. The officer was just about leaving there, so I was very lucky. When I finally got to my site, I got to know a family from Winnipeg. They gave me a free meal again! It has become one of major excuses to stay at campgrounds! The father's aunt was the founder of youth hostel in Manitoba. When I said it was an honor to meet him, he also said it was an honor to meet me. I don't know if I deserve that word.

I woke up at 6:30. Though I tried to leave by 7:30, but left there at 8:00.　As soon as I got on the highway, I met "super" washboard. It was pretty tough　for morning. Only good thing was the pavement was very new and rolling resistance was very low. Without the climb, it would've been the best part for sure.
It took me only 20 minutes to get into Ontario. The sign looked very poor compared　with the one in or Manitoba. I felt a little bit excited because it will be (hopefully!) the second last province on my trip, but meanwhile it is the largest province on my trip. Just a few kilometers away was the visitor info. I got a book about campsite, but not like in other province, what I got contains information only in west Ontario. It seemed like I will have to get another one in some other visitor info. Gee, my luggage is gonna be heavier!
From there the washboard was not as bad as around West Hawk. It was just like smaller version of one in Alberta. The region seemed to be one of the most touristic places in Canada, and I saw some people riding a bike with no panniers or running along the highway.
I took the second break in Clearwater Bay, where I bought chocolate milk. I was surprised to see the price of gas. (I was checking the price of gas on my trip to see how different things were in Canada. I recommend it as a way to enjoy your travel!) They sell at 63.5 or even more! It's still a lot cheaper in Japan, though.
After a while I encountered 2 American cyclists going to Alaska. When I told them I came from Vancouver, they looked like they admired me. But I've biked only halfway and there's still a long way to go.
Just before noon I finally got to Kenora, where I had heard of. It was very beautiful town. There were the beautiful lake (Lake of the Woods)and beautiful buildings. No wonder there were so many tourists. While I was touched by its beauty, it was the place where I have to make a big decision --- whether I should take highway 17, the shorter but more dangerous, or highway 71, the longer but more scenic and less crowded. I went in the visitor info there and asked for advice. I was told that highway 17 has shoulder in most of the way. (I guess they meant gravel shoulder.) That really made me wonder, and I couldn't decide till I got to the junction.
When I got there, eventually I decided to take #71, which I had planned before. For the first 10km the road has 3 foot shoulder, but soon it became intermittent. Also the highway was pretty hilly, and it reminded me of the days in BC. Hills got longer as I went on. It was just like the part between Kamloops and Revelstoke. Traffic was very light, and I saw 10 cars a minute at most. Sometimes I didn't see a car for a couple of minutes. Most cars are camper or personal cars, and most of them had canoes and boats.
As I got close to Sioux Narrows, road condition got worse. I got to the town around 4, and got surprised there were so many souvenir shops. I checked some to look for a patch of Ontario, but couldn't find any. I went on the highway and soon found a campground. The place was one of the best on my trip, but too expensive. (18 dollars!) There was bait or something on the table, which stunk really bad and bothered me through the night. Man, I hate this place!

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